Week 5: Mysore to Agonda (via Hampi)

What a difference a week makes,moving on from Karnataka to Goa, from cities to tranquility…

Our route so far (stars places we’ve stayed), bottom right this weeks journey.

Average Steps – 12829 (decreasing significantly in Goa), Average spend – £44

Distance covered – 800km. 7 buses, 2 trains (both overnight), 2 boats

Largest item seen on scooter – 10ft Banana tree ( – bananas). Proportion of westeren to Indian people in restaurant in Goa – 40:2.

We can’t write about book club this week as we’re about a third of the way through Midnights children, so I’ll save our thoughts for next week (when we’ve hopefully finished it).

Highlights this week include:

1. Boulders – We enjoyed walking, cycling and scrambling around The spectacular granite boulders at Hampi. We had thought they might have been created by plate tectonics, but I’m pleased to here there is no fault lines here (particular on the anniversary week of the Christchurch earthquake). These were created from gigantic granite monoliths (a craton, no less, a new word for me) which over millions of years of erosion have cracked, split and eventually metamorphed into these spectacular boulders.

2. Cycling around Ancient temples – We hired some pretty old, gearless mountain bikes to spend a lovely day cycling around some of Hampi’s multitude of temples. Unfortunately a combination of being out all day, 36 degree heat and our Indian Ayoverdic 50+ suncream being under-par, meant we both caught too much sun. We’re now on to a different brand of 60+ cream containing zinc and covering up in the heat of the day.

3. Coracle ride – Apparently coracle (round boat) originates from the welsh word for boat and are a traditional method of transporting people or animals across rivers. We had a rather dizzy ride, although turns out when Mark was at the helm that it can be rowed in a straight line rather smoothly.

4. Bat and ball on Goan beaches – To continue Lizzies ball skills education we’re playing daily bat and ball in between reading, swimming and dodging cows on the beach. It’s a hard life in Goa.

5. Sleeper trains – We’ve taken two sleeper trains this week (Mysore to Hosapete and Hosapete to Margao). Not necessarily on time (in fact the second incurred a 3 hr delay), but comfortable and always interesting. We’ve found it’s a perfect opportunity to watch a film, read our book and catch up on our diaries, as long as our cabin neighbours don’t want to talk too much.

A final thought…This week we’ve been thinking a lot about Hinduism, by far the most popular religion in India (79.8% population). We’ve been speaking to our home-stay hosts about their religious practice and immersed in Hindu tradition at the sacred site of Hampi.

We read an article this week in the guardian about the rise of the RSS (extreme Hindu branch). We’d heard about about the controversial CAA (Citizen Amendment Act) before coming away, but had little appreciation for the significance. We have been moved by the current religious unrest in certain areas of India. It has echoes with the prisoners of geography book from last week and a timely reminder of the importance of acceptance and unity. Apparently in President Trumps visit this week he’s going to discuss with PM Modi about respect for religious minorities, so I’m sure everything is going to be okay! Here’s a link to the article if, like us, you want to know a little more of what’s currently going on in India…

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/feb/20/hindu-supremacists-nationalism-tearing-india-apart-modi-bjp-rss-jnu-attacks

One thought on “Week 5: Mysore to Agonda (via Hampi)

  1. Hello Lizzie!

    It’s great to see you having such a fantastic adventure. We spent 6m in India over 25 years ago and had an amazing time. Your blog is fab! Makes great reading.
    Arr-we miss you hear! The UK and NHS is Coronavirus gone mad. Boris assures everyone that the NHS is set up and can cope with all the demands. Doubtful but maybe he’s just more positive than NHS employees!
    Anyway-I’ll look forward to your weekly updates.
    Bleess you oth

    Jenny at Pioneer xx

    Like

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